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Welcome to La Paz, a swirling carnival of colours and cultures, pedestrians and honking cars, native rituals and Western architecture, street markets, food stands and more official languages than you can count. Inimitable in its mixture of modern capitalism and ancient indigenous traditions, Bolivia`s second capital city surely is a metropolis unlike any other. Impossible to ignore, each and every street pulses with the memory of its tumultuous - if not violent - history. La Paz is there, and it`s very much in your face, so here are my top picks of its quirks and twists that are not only unapologetically Latin America, but also quintessentially Bolivian:
1. There are no supermarkets
Food shopping takes on a whole new meaning in the hustle and bustle of La Paz. Rather than getting supplies from big chains, people here shop in local markets in order to support their communities as well as to actively socialise. It`s tradition to stick to the same vendor for generations who, in turn, often assumes the role of a family therapist or counsellor. The prices cannot be negotiated but it is custom to ask for a free top-up of the goods bought, which is usually granted.
*check out Rodrigues Market on the weekends and make sure you have a chat or two with the local ladies.
Well amigo that sucks `cause you can`t. At least not in the way you`re most likely used to. Stamps aren`t available to the public in Bolivia but are administered by the government only. To send postcards, you have to pre-write them and take them to the national post office where they`re stamped and sent for you. Naturally, the opening hours depend on both mood and feel of the employees, meaning that it`s damn sure shut when you actually need it.
3. Deadly streets
It's no secret that metropolises such as La Paz get super busy and crowded at times - and you`d think that traffic lights were invented for exactly that reason, namely, to regulate and facilitate the co-existence of men and vehicles. Only in Bolivia, they somehow seem to have absolutely zero function. I mean, they`re there...but they`re gallantly ignored by every citizen, which is why crossing the street gets baaaare stressful. There are no actual traffic rules and there`s not one single car that stops for pedestrians, so you really have to run for your life once you`ve decided to go for it.
4. A dollar ain`t a dollar
You`ll quickly come to realise that Bolivia`s financial system is a little more complex than perhaps anticipated. There are two currencies that are widely accepted across the country, which allows you to either pay in US Dollars or Bolivian Bolivianos ( 1$ = 7 BOB). Be particularly careful when paying in cash as most locals prefer doing business in their own currency and may either give you back your change in Bolivianos (in which case you need to make sure they calculated correctly) or they try to get rid of old US dollar notes that are not in circulation anymore. So always check if they`re handing out the most current and valid US dollar edition and make sure those bills look like the rest in your wallet - once you`ve accepted fake or invalid money, you`re stuck with it.
5. Taxi Taxi?
For-get it. For a female solo-traveller at least, this option is out. Locals vehemently insist that no woman should take a cab or an Uber (!) by herself due to dangers of abduction and other safety issues. This rule applies to both registered and illegal companies and should be respected if you care for your life. In case you really have to use transportation, check out the city`s cable car system that works like the London Tube (just with a better view). Alternatively, you can try and catch one of the city`s notorious "mini-buses" that promise a safe and quick journey from A to Z. Lacking a fixed timetable, a fixed route and bus stops however, these buses come, go and stop as they please whilst often changing direction mid-way. A guy shouting from the bus window usually announces the (new) direction the vehicle is headed to. Once you`ve made it onto the bus, it is your responsibility to follow the route and to instruct the driver where you need to get off. If you`re distracted, you didn`t make yourself clear or you miss your stop because of any other reason, you`ll quite likely have to wait until it`s your turn again.
6. You don't believe in witches?
Come again. No matter how long you stay in La Paz, try to dedicate some time to the Mercado de Las Brujas - the Witches` Market - where the region`s ancient Ayamaran beliefs are still practiced and witches and sorcerers help to sort out your personal issues by casting spells, cursing and foreseeing the future through Coca leaves. It`s a place of both sacred spirituality and seriously respected business where you can find all sorts of offerings and talismans. Any tourist-interference may anger the locals, so do ask before taking any pictures. You don`t wanna piss the wrong witch off.
7. Mestizo
When Bolivia was violently invaded and occupied by the Spanish crown in 1548, the inevitable merge of both cultures resulted in a new form of national identity, known as Mestizo. The fusion of Spanish and Native American heritage is particularly reflected in the city`s architecture. A marvellous example for this is the baroque Basilica of San Francisco right at the heart of La Paz, where Christian iconography is mixed with native mythology...
8. Fancy a good old cup of coffee?
Well my friends, what can I say? Bolivia has many things to be jealous of - Bolivian coffee definitely ain`t one of them. I almost chocked on my first day in La Paz when I ordered a "normal" Cappuccino but was presented with a cold, thick, bitter, black brew instead. I`ve gotten accustomed to it now and it actually tastes really nice if you add some spices such as cinnamon, paprika, chocolate or caramel to it.
*for really tasty coffee and the cutest traveller-ambiance ever pop by the Cafe Del Mundo in 324 Sagarnaga
9. Are you fit, amigo?
You`re normally able to run marathons but can`t even walk 10m in La Paz without having to take a breather? Yep, welcome to the highest administrative capital in the world where the air is thin and the oxygen rare. The city`s approximate 3500m above sea level can be tough on first-time visitors and often manifest themselves in headaches, heavy breathing, exhaustion, nausea or a tight chest. So, if you`re a smoker, you have a heart or respiratory condition or are just generally unfit, you`re better off getting some medical advice in advance. If all`s good in the hood but you still get some altitude sickness, try some local Coca tea that is said to have all sorts of healing powers.
10. Street photography is. a. pain.
If you`re used to whack your camera out and take snaps whenever you want to, La Paz is going to teach you a lesson: With only 400`000 international visitors per year, the city is yet to be discovered by the tourist masses, meaning that you`ll quite likely be the only traveller within a radius of 2 1/2 miles sipping on a Coca Cola. Standing out of the crowd is therefore inevitable, but in a city where the crime rate has been increasing by more than 70% over the past three years, you wanna keep a low profile. Consequently, having your DSLR hanging from your neck in plain sight is not the smartest strategic move. People will stare at you if you take pictures on your camera or phone, so try and make it quick. Have the camera pre-set, take the shot and then store it safely in your bag or backpack. I felt completely fine as a girl by myself and there`s a 99% chance that you will too, but there`s unfortunately no denial that La Paz can be dangerous at times, so leave all your fancy bling-bling stuff at home, dress like a local and evaluate your surroundings before taking that snap.
If you`re used to whack your camera out and take snaps whenever you want to, La Paz is going to teach you a lesson: With only 400`000 international visitors per year, the city is yet to be discovered by the tourist masses, meaning that you`ll quite likely be the only traveller within a radius of 2 1/2 miles sipping on a Coca Cola. Standing out of the crowd is therefore inevitable, but in a city where the crime rate has been increasing by more than 70% over the past three years, you wanna keep a low profile. Consequently, having your DSLR hanging from your neck in plain sight is not the smartest strategic move. People will stare at you if you take pictures on your camera or phone, so try and make it quick. Have the camera pre-set, take the shot and then store it safely in your bag or backpack. I felt completely fine as a girl by myself and there`s a 99% chance that you will too, but there`s unfortunately no denial that La Paz can be dangerous at times, so leave all your fancy bling-bling stuff at home, dress like a local and evaluate your surroundings before taking that snap.
As always: Thanks for browsing,
Much love,
Hilary Fierce
--> next stop: Peru
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