HILARY FIERCE : BARRANCO: A Short Guide to Lima`s Most Underrated, Bohemian District

Welcome back dear readers, fellow travellers, friends and foes, welcome back.

We have already made it through a quarter of the new year (freaked out yet?), which made me realise how long it has been since I last pestered you with one of my reports from across the world. After having been cut off from decent wifi for a solid four weeks (thanks Cuba), I figured it was about time to tune in and to resume where I`d left off. Whilst I invited you guys to join me on a short, sandy trip to Latin America`s only natural oasis in my previous post, I`m now determined to take you to Peru`s capital, where I`ll introduce you to some of the hippest bars, museums, fairs and street art the country has to offer.

"KK, let`s say I decide to visit Lima, where should I stay?"

Before I let you in on the actual good stuff, there are a few things I must insist on clarifying: Unlike the urban landscape of Western or European cities, Latin American metropoles thrive off their outskirts that are often considered safer than the city centres. Lima is no exception here. With an estimated population of 10 million people spread across 43 districts the capital is not only humongous in size but also comprises of areas that are best avoided. Unfortunately, and depending on the neighbourhood you find yourself in, it is common practice to get scammed, harassed or robbed at gun-, or knifepoint in plain daylight. As such, reading up on Lima`s districts that are safe and accessible to tourists should be a primary concern of your trip planning and should thus influence your choice of location and accommodation.

"Vaaaaale, vale, I hear ya. Still don`t know where I should stay tho.."

Alright, mira: The average travel agency will likely advice you to book your stay in Miraflores, Lima`s most exclusive, bourgeoise district. It is also pretty much an area with an equivalent of about 0.0 character and atmosphere. Bursting with fancy hotels, overpriced boutiques and Western restaurants (major red flag) it is pretty much the most boring place on earth. Don`t get me wrong ay - if you are craving to spend 22 Soles (£5) on a Cappuccino then by all means, be my guest...but unless you`re desperate to mingle wth the rest of bougie, snobbish holidaymakers dressed in white socks, sandals and a panama hat, I suggest you trust me when I tell you: There ain`t nothing for ya, believe me. Where you wanna go, mi corazòn, is a tad further south.

"Where ?!"

South. About 12km from Lima`s historical centre lies a district so edgy, even Shoreditch would get jealous. Home to Peru`s most coveted artists, intellectuals and hipsters, Barranco`s perhaps best defined as a melting pot for innovation and progress, where ideas are turned into creative masterpieces and the country`s future is quietly being improved behind seemingly dilapidated doors. As derelict as it appears, however, Barranco virtually operates as its own microcosm and subsists by merging Peru`s traditional spirit with a relentless thirst for growth and avant-garde. What results from this rather unorthodox symbiosis is a bohemian, entirely underrated gem of a district filled with markets, museums, coffeeshops, pop-up stores, funky bars and even funkier street art. It`s - no joke - the place to be and if you`re still not convinced, then keep on reading and check out a handful of Barranco`s trendiest spots I`ve listed for you below. Vamoooos.

Food & Drinks

1. La Panetteria Barranco

Comfy, delicious and affordable, this local breakfast cafe is ideal if you`re looking to start your day off right.
Av. Almte. Miguel Grau 369, Barranco 15063, Peru

2. Sofa Café

No matther the situation, humongous, cosy armchairs are always a winner - especially when paired with a good book and pancakes or waffles that are bigger than your face. Try to ask for extra ice cream real nicely and you might even get two servings for free. Just saying.
Av. San Martin N. 480, Barranco 15063, Peru

http://www.sofacafeperu.com/

3. El Tìo Mario

If you`re dying to try some traditional Peruvian dishes, Tìo Mario`s your best bet. Characterised by its azure facade and a never ceasing queue of hungry customers, you`ll quite likely end up waiting in line. Bright side? It`s by far considered the best food in town and the prices are ridiculously affordable. Any further questions? No? Good.
In front of the Bridge of Sighs, Jr. Zepita 214, Barranco 15064, Peru

anticucheriatiomario.com

4. Cafe Express Virgen de Guadalupe

Oye, it really couldn`t get any more boho-vintage than this: Converted into a cafe / bar / diner, this old train waggon has its doors open for you from breakfast to dinner errryday and serves all beverages you could have possibly been craving since you set foot on Peruvian soil. I`d highly recommend trying their hot chocolate, although I hear they do pretty fancy Martini`s too.
Av. San Martin 015A, Barranco 15063, Peru

5. Ayahuasca

You may have heard of it (no, not the drug). Predominantly frequented by Lima`s high society and deemed as the country`s most exclusive cocktail bar, Ayahuasca is spread over several floors and works its magic by serving wonderfully exotic cocktail creations from Monday to Sunday. Admitted, it`s on the rather expensive end of the spectrum, but you may feel like treating yourself once. Or twice.
Av. San Martin 130, Barranco 15063, Peru

https://ayahuascarestobar.com

Art & Culture

1. Graffiti Walking Tour

Barranco may just about be the most colorful and creative district there is in the capital and is, as such, best discovered on foot. Dedicate a few hours to the exploration of some truly amazing graffitis and murals and let yourself be amazed by the vast street art underground scene the neighbourhood has to offer.

2. MATE Mario Testino Museum

Founded by Peru`s favorite, world-famous photographer Mario Testino, the museum is a feast for the senses with its lofty, spacious halls exhibiting art, design and fashion. It`s only a short walk from any of Barranco`s main attractions and even offers student discount on all entry fees.
Av. Pedro de Osma 409, Barranco 15063, Peru
http://www.mate.pe/en/

3. Fiesta Time

I admit this is a bit random, but seeing that Lima`s got countless churches dedicated to a specific saint associated with a specific district, you`re quite likely to come across at least one of the religious festivities held several times a week. Just keep an eye out for it, participate and enjoy - it`s the ideal time to ineract with locals, take a few snaps and eat some divinely tasting churros!

4. Karaoke

I know right? Who knew Peruvians adore karaoke and that it has become as popular of an activity as going clubbing on the weekends? To be fair, there`s nothing wrong with grabbing a mate and singing your heart out to a bunch of random strangers in one of Barranco`s various karaoke bars dotted around the main square, am I right?

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Shopping

1. La Feria

Open from Thursday to Sunday, La Feria is possibly one of the quirkiest and hippest independent fairs in town, and hosts gigs and cafes as well as pop-up stores and markets. Predominantly visited by locals, the handcrafted goods are not only unique but also tremendously affordable, which makes the fair an ideal spot for shopping on a budget. You`re welcome.
Jr. Union 108, Barranco 15063, Peru

2. DaDa

There, behind the closed crystal doors of one of Barranco`s majestic villas lies a concept store able to transport its customers to the white-marbled, decadent and absurd world of Lima`s elite. Indisputably on the pricey and exclusive side of things, DaDa will give you the (window) shopping experience you never knew you needed. Dependng on the day, you`ll find art auctions taking place alongside beauty fairs and photography exhibitions, which are all scattered across three floors. No one seems to bother about the "concept" behind the store, and no one seems to question the cable phones, bicycles and Greek statues that are casually hanging from the ceilings either. "Shut up and keep shopping" appears to be the only dictum that counts - perhaps not for us peasants, but for the upperclasswomen that discuss their husband`s flaws over a glass of overpriced champagne with their newly acquired jade roller sticking out of their beige LV`s. You don`t believe me? Drop by and see for yourself. I promise you - the entertainment is real.
Av. San Martin 154, Barranco 15063, Peru
https://dada.com.pe/#/

3. IKEA who?

I feel like I`ve made it pretty clear that Barranco`s gradually redefining Peru`s role in the world of global creativity, art and design. This is particularly reflected in the number of home appliances and furniture stores that have been popping up on almost every of the district`s corner over the past few months. Move over, IKEA! Those stores may not only serve as aesthetic inspiration, but also provide you with the ideal opportunity to buy small, unique souvenirs for loved ones back home.
Check out Cuatro En un Baùl, that`s a good start.
Jiron Martinez de Pinillos 105, Barranco 15063, Peru